Thursday, 4 April 2013

Button-Down Shirts for 2013


Closet Content Analysis: Shirts with Buttons

NICE                   NOTE-WORTHY            NEW          

Anne Fontaine storefront in Paris, Photo taken by JoyD in October, 2012

Every year I feel I should buy two new shirts, not just pull-over tops but true button-down shirts. I like the look of shirts generally and as noted in a previous post, I do love Anne Fontaine cuts. Last October I was at an Anne Fontaine store in Paris and did indulge. The woman who was serving me, contrary to what most people believe about service personnel in Paris, was down to earth, and helpful, in addition to being elegant and beautiful. I arrived at the store with the intent to buy a white button down shirt. Although I have at least four Anne Fontaine shirts in my closet, they are from a time when I was a couple of sizes bigger. I wanted a plain white shirt and the ones in my closet have various forms of detailing. After showing me several white shirts, I made references to the ones I own by saying, "this one is similar to one I have" or "I have two with the black edging" or . . . and so the sales associate asked if I had a black shirt.  I think she sensed that I did not NEED another white shirt. I left with a black one that fit impeccably and makes me feel tailored even with blue jeans. I especially like it with a recently purchased pair of skinny Hudson jeans with a black side stripe.


Anne Fontaine black shirt purchased in Paris,
October, 2012
NICE: This Anne Fontaine black shirt, purchased in October, 2012 is now my NICEST since I wear it independently or under blazers or my Armor-Luxe v-neck cardigan.
Anne Fontaine black shirt with Hudson Leeloo skinny jeans.

The front panels, collar and cuffs are 100% cotton and the back and sleeves are a stretch fabric. This combination provides a phenomenal fit and allows for a few pounds up or down. After a winter of too many good meals, I am at the "few pounds up" and I do feel it across the back but it doesn't feel restricting in the same way a stiffer, less flexible fabric would.


Burberry long-sleeved shirt with silver studded collar.
NEW: I'm not in the habit of paying $525.00 for a shirt. And I did not; however I did buy one where the original retail prices was labelled as such. I was in Vancouver, British Columbia and checking out the sales racks at Holt Renfrew. I found a Burberry white shirt (remember I said I needed a white button down shirt) priced at $209.00. This price was still a tad high although I have paid that approximate price for my Anne Fontaine shirts. I looked at the size and I thought it was too big, although it did not look too big. The sales associate informed me that Burberry does "fit smaller" and so I tried it on. She also added that all the sales priced items were another 40% off. How convenient! I rationalized and now I own it.

I like wearing this one with my Theory dark taupe skinny pants.

NOTE-WORTHY: This tapered white shirt is a good 2 to 3 inches longer than any of my other shirts and it feels good to wear it with my skinny pants. It covers the front and backside perfectly without looking sloppy. 

NEED: Since I have maintained my weight now for two years, and I have no present intention to gain a significant amount back, it's time to have my Anne Fontaine shirts altered to fit properly in the shoulders. I do wear them under blazers and the fit is passable but independently, you can tell they're a tad too big.

Wednesday, 3 April 2013

Adding Jewellery when Mixing Patterns


Closet Content Analysis: Solid Colour Choices to Accent the Patterns


NICE           NEED    


The April 1, 2013 post began an analysis of mixing patterns and so the discussion continues with the addition of jewellery. When mixing patterns, repeat one of the mutual colours (if you have two items in two patterns) in a solid block with a necklace, earrings or bracelet but do not try to wear all three and definitely do not match all three. The interest you have created by mixing patterns needs to be enhanced by your jewellery not put in competition with it. So remember when wearing jewellery with patterned clothing, the jewellery and other accessories should be restricted to one area, the neck, the wrist or the ears in a solid block that is bold. 

My advice isn't being followed in the photo below. With due respect to Talbot's, I wouldn't do the pink necklace or the pink purse. The top is great and the JoyD green necklace, which appears to be the same colour - hence the colour block, would be a better choice. As far as the bag and shoes, I'd go neutral but not matchy-matchy. But then again, I'm not a stylist for Talbot's.

Green stone necklace created by JoyD, Spring, 2013.
Photo Source: http://www.talbotspr.com/spring-2013-look-book/

Finding the perfect green or complementary colour can be an issue. The next question then would be, is there enough of that bright soft green in the pattern to pop with the necklace? The top helps. This is where backward planning comes into play - you NEED to find a floral that can be complemented by the solids you already own in your closet.

Shopping Advice: Take a favourite solid colour top from your closet with you when you go shopping for a floral skirt or floral skinny pants. Keep that as your base complementary colour. Just go shopping for the print. If you start buying more accessories, you'll be duped into buying more than you need. You probably already own a pair of neutral coloured sandals in nude, sand, beige or tan that would work nicely as a backdrop. Even a pale tone of a colour that is in the skirt as a shoe match would work.

Monday, 1 April 2013

Mixing Patterns for Spring 2013

Unconventional Choices

Closet Content Analysis: Mixing Prints & Patterns

NO THANKS?         NEED?          

One of the trends for Spring 2013 calls for floral prints. For the most part, florals have been a NO THANKS in my closet. At this moment, short of a few scarves, some of which were gifts, I do not have a single floral print item. And so, in order to complete this post, I appealed to friends and family who responded with similar laments, "I have no prints or florals in my closet!" Scarves tend to be the exception. Perhaps 2013 will see a change. 

The fact is that florals and prints in general do date a wardrobe. Solid is safe. 

Adding floral prints to my closet will be difficult. As I write this, I hear my brain saying, "It's not going to happen". Yet here I am, about to encourage you to do what I have no intention of doing.

If I don't even have floral prints in my closet, it's no surprise that I would have difficulty writing about mixing patterns, such as floral prints with stripes, stripes with geometric lines, or geometric lines with floral prints. However, perhaps this a NEED.

NEED?: Prints in my closet.

NEED?: To mix those prints in my closet.

In my email appeal for prints, artist Jan Corcoran sent me a photo of her favourite scarf. She bought it in the Minneapolis airport on her way to Saskatoon, Saskatchewan from the Miami Art Faire, December, 2012. She claims to "find some of my best buys, scarves, hats and gloves in airport kosks". The one you see here is  12"X72" long and is composed of 50% silk and 50% viscose weave. Similar to my closet choices, she chooses to wear it with t-shirts and jeans but claims it goes with everything. 

For spring 2013, what about floral jeans? 

NICE or NO THANKS?


Photo source for Alice & Olivia floral skinny jeans:
http://www.shopbop.com/clothing-denim-printed-jeans/br/v=1/2534374302204239.htm?all

When I emailed Jan to tell her what I was going to write, she responded with, "Coloured jeans, yes; floral, no. I love the florals and if I had my daughter's figure, absolutely!" There, it has been written . . . those floral pants require a more youthful slim figure. Even though I am a size 6, I am more "hour glass" and so I do wear skinny pants, but would never consider a floral print . . . maybe a geometric print? Hmmm . . . maybe not.

But, back to my original intent for this post, that of mixing patterns. Here are some guidelines to apply to your closet contents.

If you have never mixed patterns before, choose two pieces with matching colour combinations. For example: Look back at the skinny pants and Jan's scarf - one piece in a yellow, blue, green and red combination on a white background and a second piece with predominantly the same colours. 

A third piece should be a base solid colour that is dominant in both pieces. Therefore, using Jan's scarf and the floral skinny pants, I immediately see blue as the colour for the top. For some of us who are a bit more self-conscious, make that a top that covers the butt.

Experiment by changing the base colour as your third piece or for your accessories. Essentially what you are doing is combining pattern mixing and colour blocking. I personally wouldn't have a blue top, red shoes and a yellow purse . . . that begins looking clown-like in my estimation. Without ever having done this, I propose that my purse and shoes would be neutral in beige tones, browns or black.

This is definitely a post that needs your input!

Saturday, 30 March 2013

No Easter Bonnets in Sight

Closet Content Analysis: No New Clothes for Easter

It's Easter Sunday but it looks more like Christmas Day on the Canadian prairies. 

Easter meant a NEW Sunday best outfit for me when I was little including something for my hair whether a hat or some other such accessory. As I grew into adulthood, I still used Easter as my excuse to buy a NEW spring outfit. The headgear was a frivolity and not something to which I adhered.  Now, the NEW doesn't even enter my mind for a variety of reasons. However, I do "dress-up" if I go to church and always seem a little surprised that perhaps only 20% of the church-goers are in their "Sunday best". I figure I have the clothes so why not? In the same way, others may say, I don't have the clothes, what for?

But it's Easter today and somehow I expected to see more colours rather than the drab winter wear and blue jeans. A couple of years ago while having Easter Sunday lunch on the island of Burano in Italy, every diner, including the little ones, was wearing something in a shade of purple. "Have you noticed . . . " I said to my husband, who in turn responded that he thought it was the light in the restaurant. What a joyful light it was!

I remember the same light-hearted feeling and joyfulness in the air and on the people's backs when we visited Greece at Easter. It's not that the outfits were necessarily new, but they were representative of the season, no matter the weather.

So irrespective of the temperature, put on something from your closet in colours to feel the joy of spring. 

Happy Spring . . . Happy Easter . . . Happy Happy!

Shopping with a Planning Guide


JoyD's Fashion Trends 2013 Closet Planner Chart

If you used this chart in Spring 2012 then you have a list of the items you purchased and can see what you can salvage from last year's trends. Or start anew this weekend when you go shopping.



Colour
Basics
Specific 2013 Trends

Classic Pieces (with trendy suggestions):

Blouses
Shirts
T-shirts
Pants (wide leg)
Jeans
Capris Shorts
Skirts (pencil, mini, airy maxi - in 2013 structured)
Dresses (floral prints, lace - same advice as 2012)
Blazers/jackets (fitted; tuxedo-style)
Suits 
Clothing Trend Design:

The following have been retrieved from Elle and Harper's:
Cut outs (arms, midriff, back)
Lace
Leather (boxy jackets but not blazers, tops but not pants see the Harper's slides)
Florals, especially pants
Prints mixed with graphics 
Checkerboard, graphic designs and stripes v-necks
tailored shorts
Structured skirting and continuation of the peplum 
Monochromatic
head to toe colour
"Cage" graphics
"Eastern" print "Statement" ruffle or frill
Black for formal wear
Jewellery:

Stacked bracelets, bangles and cuffs with colourful gems for Spring 2013 
Add a large watch to the stack
Drop earrings (long)
Gypsy-style (folksy with tassels) chandelier earrings
Statement necklaces (oversized pearls a la Chanel)
Large metal chain links
Rose Gold
Statement sunglasses
"Fringe" necklaces & bracelets

Shoes & Bags:

Contrasting black & white elements/sections
Tote/shopping style bags
Transparent inlays for shoes and see-through bags
Gladiator style sandals, shoes & boots
Stacked chunkier heels 

The colour names indicated in this chart were retrieved from the Panetone website on March 30, 2013. The linked page displays the colours for women's and men's apparel for Spring, 2013.


Black






White






Emerald (Panetone 17-5641) - named colour of the year





Grayed Jade (Panetone 14-6011)





Dusk Blue (Panetone 16-4120)





Tender Shoot (Panetone 14-0446)





Lemon Zest (Panetone 13-0756)





African Violet (Panetone 16-3520)





Linen (Panetone 12-1008)






Monaco Blue (Panetone 19-3964)





Poppy Red (Panetone 17-1664)





Nectarine (Panetone 16-1350)






Make a copy for your personal use but remember copyright applies to  JoyD's Fashion Trends 2013 Closet Planner Chart created for the Closet Fashion Content Analysis blog by JoyD, April, 2012 and it is illegal to reprint it for use commercially in any way except with the permission of the author. Contact JoyDCreations@gmail.com

Thursday, 28 March 2013

Skinny Pants

Choices: Last season's sale items at Holt Renfrew vrs. Costco 

New (Purchased over the last 6 weeks)
Note-Worthy      No Thanks     Need    


I've purchased three pairs of skinny pants in the past six weeks; two were on sale at Holt Renfrew and one pair was a Costco purchase - each in three different Canadian cities. Skinny pants are my alternative to short shorts. As to weather considerations, a loose pair of linen pants or a gauzy lightweight dress/shift would be better in hot weather than short shorts anyway. It's an age thing.


Retrieved from Lyst on March 27, 2013.
The dark taupe Theory pair were purchased at Holt Renfrew in Edmonton, Alberta at the sale cost of $149.00 (plus 5% GST) at the beginning of February. The original cost was $225.00. Theory was founded in 1997 by Andrew Rosen in New-York but is now a Japanese owned company. Clothing from Theory has defined "the modern contemporary category". According to the publicity statements, "exceptional fit, high-quality fabrics, and sleek silhouettes for both men and women have made Theory designs go-to staples in stylish closets around the globe". The starting retail prices are about $200.00 for pants. My favourite way of wearing my dark taupe Theory pants through the last of the snow is with a pair of flat knee-high boots and a black lightweight merino wool top. For work I put a black blazer on and it feels perfect.


Retrieved from Hudson Jeans on March 27, 2013.
I paid $99.00 (plus British Columbia HST of 12%) for these Leeloo super skinny cropped Hudson "bone white" pair with black side stripe at Holt Renfrew in Vancouver. They were originally priced at $198.00 but I bought them for $99.00 on March 19th. On the Hudson website I found them at a sale price of $119.00. They look more white in this photo than the beige I see in real life.

Nice:  My favourite of the two are the Theory pair. They feel the best, they sit the best and the dark taupe is my new beige. 

Need: I intend to find a floral top or a striped scarf including a matching taupe accent to lighten and brighten the Theory skinny pants for spring, 2013.

Note-Worthy 1:  Even though the cropped Hudson pair don't fit or sit as well as the Theory pair and they feel like they are "falling down" (but of course I only found this out after wearing them for a day), I do like the look. As well because stripes are such a strong trend this spring, I still am glad I bought them. 

Need:  A belt to keep my Hudson Leeloo cropped pants up!

Note-Worthy 2:  I bought a beige pair of skinny pants for a Costco purchase of $24.99. Of all, these are the easiest to wear and certainly fall into that "comfortable casual" category since they have no front or side zippers, except to act as fake pocket closures, and are simply a pull-on. What's note-worthy is that when I wear any one of the three, the "look" is essentially the same. Alfred Sung is a Canadian designer who is responsible for the Club Monaco label (with Saul and Joe Mimran - of Joe Fresh fame).

What shoes to wear with skinny pants: 
Professional stylists tend to put heels with skinny pants and I have done that. In the winter, flat or heeled boots are so perfect but in the summer, the ballet flat is my preference.

Care for cotton based clothing with elasticine or polyesters: 
The Theory label suggests the need for drycleaning. Yet the content of the Theory pants are over 60% cotton with nylon and elasticine. Sticking that drycleaning label on their clothing is a default action to defray any liability for fabric destruction by customers. Essentially they don't trust us to know how to care and clean our clothing. For the most part, when it comes to pants, the only ones I dryclean are those that are 100% wool (or the majority percentage is wool) and could be described as "dress pants" or "suit pants" - professional pressing and cleaning is a combination I cannot duplicate for those pants. The Hudson pants are 90% cotton and the Alfred Sung Costco pants are polyester and elasticine. Their labels both suggest a delicate cold water machine wash with similar colours, hanging to dry or tumble dry and ironing with a low iron if needed. If your iron has a "synthetics" setting, that would be considered "low". The Alfred Sung pants appear not to need any ironing and I would modify the "ironing" to inside out on the Theory and Hudson pants. I just washed the Theory pants, nothing bad happened and they look fine.

One of the reasons I iron my pants inside out is to prevent that "shine" which occurs when your iron is too hot for the fabric composition. To be on the safe side, anything that has nylon, elasticine or spandex in it should be ironed inside out. My guess is that the nylon, etc. has a lower melting point and those fibres will melt and create the shine. I may be wrong but it's a thought. Some will suggest using an ironing cloth, a cotton or linen piece to place on the fabric you are ironing so that the iron does not touch the clothing item directly. Good use for an old linen shirt or cotton t-shirt.

Another inside out ironing tip is to iron the zipper area and the seams open flat (if they aren't stitched together that is). This provides a flat finished look rather than the crumple you sometimes see at the seams or zippers.

Sunday, 17 March 2013

Following Jewellery Trends for Spring 2013


Spring "Greens" for Spring 2013

NEW!          


Turquoise embellishing large chain links for Spring, 2013.
One of the reasons I have not been blogging over the past month is that I am preparing for a spring show in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada and now that it is a week away, I pretty much only have to price my wares and make a piece or two to round out the choices. I am leaving via Vancouver where I will spend a couple of days and maybe pick up some jewellery findings and semi-precious stones. Of course, the basis of my work is in turquoise and sometimes a piece evolves from whatever components sit and stare at me for a significant amount of time. And so it was with this piece as I pondered how to use the last of the big link chain and a 6 pack of turquoise donuts. I do not buy much in mass amounts just because it forces me to be unique in my designs. Unfortunately when someone asks if I can make them another exactly like "this one", my answer is often no.


Semi-precious green stone with oversized spheres for Spring, 2013.
Although I find turquoise something of a chameleon that can be worn with many different colours and outfits, green, according to Panetone, is the colour for Spring, 2013 and so I created a few in the jade tones and some lighter shades of green.

Over the past five years of making jewellery, I have noticed that statement necklaces are becoming a basic rather than just a trend. More women are choosing big and bold and the statement necklace is becoming a "must have" necklace. I have been making pieces with large links, huge chains and over-sized beads for a good while and just when I think that the more delicate will overtake the "trend of the moment", Chanel (see slide 61 on the Harpers Bazaar link) places giant pearly baubles at the wrist and at the neck, as they did again for the spring of 2013. It doesn't seem to matter whether it is night or day, the statement pieces are being worn at work and play. Even a t-shirt and jeans become a palette for the artistry and design of a signature piece.

Just be advised that with all the "bigness" in both earrings and necklaces in the spring of 2013, keep the clothing simple and understated.





Friday, 15 March 2013

Spring 2013: Colours


Last fall's colours blend into spring 2013

Choices: Green or Blue?

Note-Worthy           No Thanks           


Last fall I suggested you buy some t-shirts in colbalt blue, orange and emerald. Aren't you glad you didn't buy head to toe orange? Mind you "tangerine tango" was the 2012 colour of the year as proclaimed by Panetone, a commercial conglomerate dedicated to producing colour for print, fabric and anywhere else colour is needed.

Blue tops purchased on sale in fall, 2012 and winter, 2013
Panetone is calling "emerald" its colour of the year for 2013. This spring, you might want to look for a skirt, baggy Bermuda shorts or pants in the tones of the green top or t-shirt that you bought last fall. But if you were like me, you may have chosen the blue instead and bought a top or two in that colbalt colour last fall.

The Panetone colours for Spring 2013 have been determined as emerald, tender shoots, greyed jade, dusk blue, Monaco blue, African violet, lemon zest,  nectarine, linen, and poppy red. Cobalt blue has been toned down to dusk blue and Monaco blue, a slightly less electrifying shade than colbalt; orange is now nectarine and emerald is still emerald although there are at least two other green tones for the spring: tender shoots and greyed jade. 


Note-Worthy: If the 2013 Academy Awards was any indication, there was a smattering of blue in the "colour" choices within a predominantly pale palette, short of the black and red that is. Nothing "green" stands out. If anything, blue came through more strongly than green. I don't believe that's a big surprise because I believe that, for the most part, blue is easier to wear than green and will "last" longer in your wardrobe. Not that any of these women (or the little girl) would dream to wear any of these dresses again.

Blue Gowns at the 2013 Academy Awards. Retrieved from http://abcnews.go.com/topics/entertainment/movies/red-carpet.htm?mediatype=Image on March 4, 2013
Note-Worthy & No Thanks: I have purchased greens in the past: a lime green short boxy blazer, a wool "suit" in dark forest green with trousers, and a pale mint green silk suit with baggy pants and a pencil skirt with a blazer. I love that silk suit and it is still in my stash of "old closet stuff" that may once again see the light of day. The jacket and wool suit are also still in my closet but are not appealing enough to try to resuscitate. Of course, I always had something green to wear on St. Patrick's Day. In conclusion, for me, even though I have owned green in the past, it now would be considered a no thanks.

Nice: So what's my choice? It is obvious isn't it.