Clothing Psychology: Wardrobe Malfunctions

Choices: Why is that in your closet?

Closet Content Analysis: Underlying Psychology of Wardrobe Choices

"What you wear reveals more about your inner turmoil than you think, says Jennifer Baumgartner, a psychologist whose Washington, D.C., practice involves making house calls to analyze wardrobes." (The Clothes Psychologist is In by Julia McKinnell, Monday, April 30, 2012; Retrieved October 8, 2012 from Macleans.ca)

I once read about a psychologist who claimed he could determine one's personality type by analyzing how that person prepared an orange for eating and then how he or she ate it. This pop psychology is entertaining at the most; but because it comes to us in simplistic terms and watered-down analysis, it can mislead. Is Baumgartner reverting to "pop" psychology in her closet analysis or can our closets be used accurately for psychoanalysis? In Baumgartner's examples, as revealed in McKinnell's article, various manifestations occur: ". . . closet dysmorphia (oversized clothing on small bodies) . . . women who dress like teenagers . . .  swap(ped) maternal roles for friendship roles with their daughters . . . (and a) wardrobe stuck in adolescence because (of) . . . adolescent trauma issues". As a psychologist, she clarifies that, 

". . . my psychological practice and treatment is separate from my wardrobe consultations. My wardrobe consultations are informed by psychology, but I only work with the internal as it relates to shopping, dressing, and organizing/storing behaviors when acting as a consultant." (Retrieved October 9, 2012 from Comments to The Clothes Psychologist is In, Macleans.ca) 

Even though she claims that her psychological practice and treatment is separate from (her) wardrobe consultation, her assessment about women who dress like teenagers and unresolved trauma issues sounds like psychoanalysis.

On that note, you can attempt a little closet-analysis to "discover yourself" and attempt a bit of self-analysis for fun.

Here are some wardrobe malfunctions and possible strategies to deal with them. I won't even begin to try to suggest any psychological underpinnings.

No Thanks: 5 Wardrobe Malfunctions 

Wardrobe Malfunction 1: The majority of your clothing is black and you do not profess to being a "goth".
Solution: Cheap colourful t-shirts. Introduce yourself and your wardrobe to colour. I bought a 3.90Euro cobalt blue t-shirt last week at LeClerc (a grocery/department store in France) to see if I liked the colour well enough on me to warrant buying something more expensive in that colour. With that in mind, if you are shy of colours, this is a perfect way to introduce it into your wardrobe. You can always cover it up with a black cardigan and just show tiny hints of it until you are confident enough to wear a vibrant block of colour! Why you're not wearing vibrant colours in the first place, is your business. Remember, I promised not to do any amateur psychoanalysis.

Wardrobe Malfunction 2: There are three different sizes in your closet. (I believe I've admitted to this in a past post.)
Solution: Give away, take to the consignment store or pack away any clothing that does not fit. Choose what fits you - not too tight, not too short, not so baggy; all that is too tight, too short and too baggy should be out of sight, out of mind. The small clothes will depress you, reminding you to lose 20 pounds/7 kilos/whatever - and the big clothes will frustrate you, reminding you of all that money spent and now they're too big. Living in the moment is healthy for your mind-full-ness.

Wardrobe Malfunction 3: Novelty clothing or the clothing in your closet is "too young" for you. I want to clarify that "youthful" is acceptable but some stuff is just "too young" and probably outdated too. Novelty t-shirts should only be worn for those "special occasions" when they make sense. The pink rhinestone-studded "this is the bride" t-shirt was fine at the bachelorette party but it's done and should be passed on to another bride-to-be.
Solution: If you are reading this post, you are probably old enough to give away or throw away any t-shirt with princess references, "cute" rhinestone-studded sayings or what you think are clever quips, that are positioned strategically on your buttocks or upon your chest.

Wardrobe Malfunction 4: Cheap sexy. Your closet is overwrought with "cheap sexy" - midriff skimming tops, plunging necklines, too short skirts with too long slits, see-through fabrics.
Solution: Keep "sexy" but only to one item per wear and for evening. Keep the plunging neckline but wear it with a pair of pants. Wear a modest top with a long skirt that has a sexy slit. It's overdone when you have the plunging neckline and the slit up to there. Do the bend over test for your short skirts - remember the "bow-wow" rule - if you bow and everyone behind you says, "wow"", the skirt is too short. Sit, stand, bend over, walk - to make sure that you will not be tugging down on your skirt with every move. Keep the "sexy" that accentuates your best feature but remember appropriateness. You'll feel more confident flaunting your best feature; whereas you'll probably be uncomfortable managing all the "sexy" going on when you overdo it.

Wardrobe Malfunction 5: Clothing in need of repair. The clothing in your closet is missing buttons, has sagging hemlines, seams have come undone and you have resorted to pinning your pants up with safety pins.
Solution: Throw anything shabby away - Goodwill doesn't want it either. Find a tailor or do it yourself but assign a time on your calendar to "fix up" those "fixable" items in your wardrobe.

Well, have you figured out the psychological underlying factors to your wardrobe malfunctions?

Julia McKinnell concludes her piece on Baumgardner's work by writing that . . . "identifying internal reasons for clothing choices helps improve your wardrobe and can change your life". (Retrieved October 9, 2012 from Macleans.ca) 

Hmm? Interesting; perhaps; perhaps not.

The Brogue/Oxford/Derby: The Flat for Fall 2012

Shoe sculpture in Roman-sur-Isere, France, September, 2011.

When I walked into a shoe store in Romans-sur-Isere and asked for "brogues" for women, the sales associate had no idea what I was talking about. I then tried the word, "oxford"; that did not work either. Finally after showing her a pair of men's shoes, she said, "Ah oui, vous voulez Derby!". D'accord! Call it what you want, the Brogue/Oxford/Derby appears to be the flat for the Fall of 2012. (Even though this may be the "tendance" - the "trend"; ballerina flats are also everywhere, and so I believe, like loafers, all these flats will always be there from which to choose.) However, as "tendance" goes -what is popular for the moment - it seems that brogues outweigh ballet flats this fall. But it isn't just "brogues" that are popular but rather any "man-style" tie-up or buckled shoe. The French Elle, September 2012, identified "derbys" as the flat for the season.

A brogue can be an oxford but an oxford is not necessarily a brogue. What's the difference? And what is a "derby" anyway?

Brogues get their name from "broguing" or perforations along the seams of the multiple pieces used to construct this flat shoe. There are also a variety of toe cap references, primarily wing-tip, so named because of the W shaped toe cap, a design resembling a bird's wingspread. 

An Oxford can be a Brogue, but isn't always - remember it's the perforations that make a brogue a brogue. The shoelace eyelet tabs are hidden under the vamp whereas in the Derby, you see the tab on top of the vamp. Yet the "Derby" by Danish-based Emma Go listed at 160 Euros on page 104 of the French Elle September 2012 issue has no tabs, no broguing and could be called an Oxford, although it looks to me like a flat men's inspired look with buckles, no shoelaces.

Traditionally, it is the shoelace eyelet tabs, sewn on top of a single piece vamp, that differentiates the Derby from the Oxford.

NEW: I have always preferred delicate shoes so when I found a pair of patent leather tie-ups without a heavy looking sole, nor with the broguing or perforations, I immediately felt that they were perfect to get me through this year's fall "tendance". By definition, I suppose they would best be called an "oxford". I bought them in Romans-sur-Isere. I can't remember the shop's name, although it doesn't really matter,  because the sales associate from the store I entered went to another location in the shoe mall to help me find what I wanted. It seemed as if the sales associates were all friends and helped each other out or that all the stores were owned by the same company so it didn't matter - a sale was a sale.

NOTE-WORTHY: What to wear with a brogue/oxford/derby? The "tendance" is to roll up your skinny jeans or have your jeans come to that point well below the calf muscle with a "fashionable" width between ankle and calf. This is perhaps not the most flattering look for shorter women and the look with flats is difficult to wear. As always, I think heels look better and although the magazines are showing this pant length with heels, the weekend casual look for fall 2012 in Paris happens to be brogues/oxfords/derbys, at least for the moment.

Shopping in Factory Outlet Stores

Factory outlet stores are not my favourite vendors. If you know the product well, you know that outlet stores provide limited editions - essentially stuff that does not sell well in the regular retail shops and department stores. In fact, some say that factory outlets have criteria for specific clothing and products made for this venue. I won't deny that I have found some fabulous buys but you can walk away disappointed as well. As well, Brian Davis from Calgary reminded me of a NO THANKS for outlets: "quite often there are no returns, all sales final". Very often when you are travelling, you do make a point of buying without thinking to return; however, it is a factor to consider when you live in the area and shop at factory outlet stores frequently.

Marques Avenue in Romans-Sur-Isere, France (September, 2012)

Because I'm in France for six months of the year and because I have friends in Romans-Sur-Isere, I make my way to the Marques Avenue Factory Outlet mall, which has become one of my favourite because Lancel and Armor-Lux both have stores here. However I also visit the LeCreuset (French enamel cookware) store for seconds with superficial topical flaws that do not affect the product, and another store for Yves Delorme bedding and linen. 

Closet Content Analysis: Outlet Store Purchases

 

NEED          NEW

NEED: A small bag - not an evening bag - but one small enough for evening wear but big enough for my insulin and testing equipment.

Small Lancel taupe bag purchased at Marques Avenue, Sept/12

NEW - Lancel: The small bag with a shoulder-strap that I bought in September, 2012 at the Marque Avenue Lancel store was the same "stamped" croc leather and the same colour as my Premier Flirt that I had purchased in Paris at Galleries Lafayette in September, 2011. The price of the small bag was affordable for me at this time.
The difference between buying at the outlet store and the boutiques is product choice and packaging. When my husband bought my Lancel bag and wallet in Paris, a beautifully wrapped bag came from "behind" the store's walls by another lovely sales associate. The woman who was serving me did not leave my side until the package was handed to me by the second associate. At the outlet store, the bag I chose from the display was the bag packaged for me by the sales associate at the cash register, just like any other store. The piece did not look to be outmoded or a design dud so I don't really know what was "irregular" about it.

NEED: An unembellished Armor-Lux light blue or beige and white striped top.

Grey & White Armor-Lux mariniere purchased Sept/12

NEW - Armor-Lux: Even though the outlet store had winter season selections, sizes were limited and it appeared as if there were many single items, such as one would find in a sample sale. Classics were not always available and it felt as if there was a hodge-podge of items. The only mariniere I found was pale grey and white. I bought it for 35 Euros. The price cannot be challenged. One of the reasons this classic was in the outlet store was probably because the tag said "pink and white" for the colour. Someone's mistake becomes a shopping advantage! I am pleased but I still NEED a light blue or beige and white striped mariniere.

That's it! That's all that is NEW in my closet from the Marques Avenue outlet stores. 

Leave a comment if you want or email me about your experiences of factory outlet shopping and where in the world the best outlets are!

Ballet/Ballerina Flats: Gender-less

Choices: Non-Gender Specific

Closet Content Analysis: Ballet Flats

Tory Burch Ballet Flats. Photo Credit: Brian Davis, Calgary, Alberta

The other day I was shopping at Galleries LaFayette department store in Bordeaux, France and was overwhelmed by the preponderance of ballet flats. I've wanted to write a post about these particular flats for awhile now but it wasn't until I met Brian that I knew I had to post his preferences.

In the 16^th century the ballet flat was a popular form of footwear for both men and women and so we can assume they started as non-gender specific footwear in fashion evolution. Historically, heels interrupted that development and progression. Ballet flats came into fashion again after Marie Antoinette wore heels on her way to the guillotine and they disappeared and reappeared over the next two centuries with a predominant focus for children. Then in the 1950s Audrey Hepburn wore them with skinny jeans and capris thereby popularizing them in the 20^th century, albeit amongst women for the most part.

Ballet/ballerina flats have been around long enough that they should be considered traditional for both men and women. Although, in a contemporary setting they are marketed for women; in a dance setting, but of course, ballet flats are worn by both men and women. So where am I going with this?  It is with pleasure that I introduce you to Brian Davis from Calgary, Alberta, Canada, a man who has included the ballet flat in his wardrobe and has been fortunate enough to have a shoe size that he can accommodate what he desires within a woman’s market. 

I interviewed Brian about his collection and his passion for the ballet flat. The following are the fascinating details of his footwear choices.

JoyD: From the photos I have seen, your ballet flats collection is amazing. How many pairs do you own? 

Brian Davis: How many pairs of ballet flats do I own? My immediate answer should be, too many and way too many for a guy. I have hundreds of pairs of "female" shoes, boots, sneakers, loafers and ballet flats. If I count just the shoes I consider to be ballet flats I'd say 45 pairs. My classification of ballet flats includes the following:
- Shoes that are completely flat or less than 1/4" of a heel.
- Shoes that expose the top of the foot basically down to the toes. Some show toe cleavage and some don't.

I've often heard women ask this question, "How many pairs of black ballet flats do you need?" My answer to this is, "one more pair than I have now"

JoyD: I like that response - "one more pair than I have now" - I think I'm going to borrow that one. So then, when and where did you buy your first pair?

Brian Davis: I've loved women's shoes for years and years so I've had lots of shoes that were like ballet flats but none that would be considered ballet flats today - shoes like loafers or loafers with a bit of a stacked heel (about an 1" high) or athletic type shoes like Keds with a "ballet flats" look to them. So my first real pair of ballet flats were bought in Spring 2005 at the Nine West store in South Centre Mall in Calgary, Alberta. I entered the store and looked around. I spotted a pair I liked and approached the sales girl to see if she had them in a size 10. A few minutes later she had a box in her hand and said they were a size 10. I calmly asked if I could try them on. Nikki, the sales girl was fine with that and even said how nice they looked on me. Besides loving my first real pair of flats, I appreciated the great service. I learned some valuable lessons that day. It's better to try them on in the store to make sure you get the correct size. As well, be up front and honest with the sales people, stay calm and don't act weird. If you treat them nicely they will treat you nicely too. Since that day, anytime I'm thinking about buying a pair of flats I always try them on in the store. Almost all of the sales people are OK with it. In fact, I've become really good friends with 5 of the sales girls I've met over the years.

JoyD: What a difference an attentive and respectful sales associate makes! . . . What attributes did that first pair have?

Brian Davis: My first real pair of ballet flats were made by Nine West, the style name is Dickert. There were 3 colours on display in the store. I chose the all black ones. One thing I liked about them right away was they were slightly curled up because of the elastic  around the foot opening. They were all black but there was a black patent strip on the heel and a black patent toe cap. So yes they were all black but they were made up of 3 different black materials: the elastic, the leather and the patent. Another thing I liked about them was when I was walking around in the store the very thin plastic heel piece made a clicking sound on the tile floor. The only part I'm not fond of is the thin Mary Jane strap on them.

JoyD: Actually my first and only pair of ballet flats had that elastic Mary Jane strap and I cut it off. On this blog, in another post on jackets, I received a comment telling me it was just plain wrong for a woman to wear a man's jacket. With that in mind, have you ever felt self-conscious about wearing ballet flats just because they are predominantly considered part of a woman’s wardrobe?

Brian Davis: I'd be lying if I said no I don't feel self-conscious about wearing them. If I'm just wearing plain black leather or tan flats I don't think much about it and most people don't notice. Slip on a pair of brightly coloured flats or flats that are sparkling in any way and people seem to notice right away and comment about them. Most men's shoes have a similar looking women's version and vise-versa; such as men's dress shoes, loafers, sandals, work boots, etc. They can be made to look gender neutral or unisex. Ballet flats are very feminine looking shoes and there's no real way to make them look more "manly". I guess that's why there is no men's version or even similar looking shoe to a ballet flat for men. So every time I'm buying myself a pair of flats I am in the women' side of the store or a store that only sell women's shoes.

Back in 2005 when I made the conscious decision to start buying and wearing ballet flats I also realized that I should expect different reactions and comments to my choice of footwear and accept both the positive and negative comments directed my way. I could write a small book with all the comments I've received over the years. Most people casually stare, some look shocked, some giggle and others outright laugh. others make a big deal of it and I've noticed that some will try to get a picture with a camera phone. Sadly there are some people who comment about a possible sexual orientation because of the shoes I'm wearing. This to me means they are uneducated. Although, my shoes are the cause of these reactions, I don't feel the need to try control them, but rather just accept them. The few positive reactions outweigh the abundance of negative for me.

My day to day life doesn't change much week in and week out,  I go to the same grocery stores, bank, gas stations and coffee shops all the time and see the same people. After they've seen you wearing them several times they couldn't care less.

Thanks to the internet I do know there are thousands and thousands of guys that have bought themselves ballet flats. I think most only wish they could take those first few steps out in public. A large number of these "ballet flats" guys do go out in public as cross-dressers.  Then an even smaller portion go out in public as regular guys that happen to be wearing ballet flats. That's me!

JoyD: Of course you shouldn't have to rationalize your choice to wear ballet flats to me or to anyone else but I appreciate that you have taken the time to share your preference as a guy who simply likes the look. Historically ballet flats were worn by men therefore it shouldn't be considered as odd. After all, women wear brogues.

But back to your collection of ballet flats; which are your favourite pair?

Brian Davis: I'd have to say my favorite pair is my next pair. There is some truth to that. Years ago if I saw a women wearing a pair of flats I liked I'd try to find myself the same pair. Many years ago I saw a women wearing a pair of Tory Burch Reva flats. Again thanks to the internet I was able to determine the designer but sadly no one sold them in Canada. For years and years all I could do is dream about getting a pair. In 2008 one of the local shoe store sales girls and I really hit it off and became great friends. She moved me from the Nine West, Anne Klein brands to the more upscale Michael Kors brand. After trying on her Michael Kors flats on she insisted I get a pair for myself. We now have matching flats. Again like the other designers I bought several more pairs in different colours. She and I were talking about flats one day and I mentioned the Tory Burch flats. On my next trip to Arizona she suggested  I go to the Scottsdale Fashion Plaza - a quick internet search led me to several department stores and boutiques that sold Tory Burch products. I nervously stopped by the Tory Burch boutique there and looked around. Did I say I was nervous?! Here I am in a high end boutique looking at flats and wearing a pair of MK flats. A sales girl asked if I needed any help and to let her know if I wanted to try something on. "Try something on"! WHEW! I could breathe again. I picked a pair of Tory's Reva and after an hour of trying flats I finally bought my first pair of Tory Burch Reva flats. I made several more trips down last winter and in 5 months had 7 pairs of Tory Burch flats and loafers.

NICE                   NO THANKS         NOTE-WORTHY            NEED          NEW  

   

Tory Burch Ballet Flats. Photo Credit: Brian Davis, Calgary, Alberta.

NICE: Nice for me are my Tory Burch Eddies. They are everyday flats with a memory foam foot bed for comfort and a patent finish for a bit of zing but not like  the" in your face" look that the Reva flats have. Some people think they look like cheap $15. Payless flats because of the patent finish but what they may not know is these are high quality nappa leather patent flats from Tory Burch.  What can I say . . . these are NICE and considered my everyday flats.


NO THANKS: NO THANKS is a real love/hate relationship I have and it's with pink flats. I LOVE pink flats but as a guy I just can get through what it takes to wear them out in public. Maybe some guys can pull them off but I'm not one of them (yet!). I've bought lots over the years only to return them later on. Don't get me wrong they are high quality flats but not quite right for me, so - NO THANKS.

Puma Rhythm ballet Flats. Photo Credit: Brian Davis, Calgary, Alberta.

NOTE-WORTHY:  I would have to consider my Puma Rhythm ballet flats to be noteworthy. Yes, Puma make flats - great ones. They are super comfy and cute and once you find the right size I'm sure most people will love the way they hug your foot and the way they feel. I bought them in every colour I could find in my size and I have 7 colours total.

Tory Burch Reva Flats. Photo Credit: Brian Davis, Calgary, Alberta

NEW: And the flats that are my personal pride are my Tory Burch Revas. For me they are iconic. They are the Holy Grail of ballet flats. I've searched for a pair of these for 3 years and now they are in my grip, or should I say on my feet. Women "ohhh" over these, they crave them and I'm lucky enough to have some for myself. The Revas are flats named after Tory's mother and this is my Reva collection. These were bought from the Tory Burch boutique, Nordstroms and Holt Renfrew. 

NEED:  #1 on my need list is the ultramarine blue Tory Burch water snakeskin Eddies.  If I can't have them I'll take them in any other colour available.  They are the same Eddies comfort without the Reva medallion but what I love is the snakeskin material and look and the amazing colour.

I admire Brian for manifesting his desire to wear what he likes irrespective of the label imposed upon the item. The ballet flats look much better on his feet than sitting in a closet. Thank you for your example Brian; we should all be so adventuresome!

Update: November 24, 2012

While the temperatures plummet and the snow falls, Brian is enjoying his new magenta ballet flats in more agreeable weather down south.

Tory Burch Ballet Flats. Photo Credit: Brian Davis, Calgary, Alberta

What is it to be chic?

On May 19th, 2012 I posed the question about what it is that makes one chic. I ended that post with the question, So is chic simply to be well-dressed? In attempting to rationalize my answer, it became clear that the question can instigate more discussion.

So is it simply to be well-dressed? The single word response is no.

1. To be well-dressed is certainly a predominate part of chic-ness. It would seem that you cannot be chic if you are not well-dressed. Can you be well-dressed and eccentric . . . well-dressed and athletic . . . well-dressed and economically-stressed? I would say "yes" to all those since well-dressed does not mean dressed in conservative clothing or in expensive clothing; therefore, you can be chic and eccentric, chic and athletic and chic and economically-stressed.

2. So if well-dressed is not completely necessary to be chic, should the question read that to be chic is to be impeccably dressed? "Impeccably" to me, suggests the condition of the clothing, which then contributes to the chic look; perfectly pressed seams as opposed to puckered stitches, well-attached buttons rather than buttons hanging a tad too loosely or missing entirely, hemmed edges rather than frayed and perfectly stitched seams instead of ones that have come apart and are pinned from underneath, or beautifully buffed leather not scuffed shoes with worn down heels. The clothing can be inexpensive and plain, a t-shirt and blue jeans, but if the t-shirt and jeans look shabby, one could no longer be considered chic. Shabby chic is an interior decorating term but I do not know if the term can exist in clothing or in the descriptors for people.

3. A simple t-shirt and jeans can be chic but if the fit is not perfect, or the shoulders are hanging a bit off and the jeans are "bagging" in the wrong places, the t-shirt and jeans become "comfortable casual" rather than chic. After writing that, I am asking myself, "But why can't you be comfortable casual and chic?" Still I believe that to be chic, the fit of the clothing is more important than the cost of the clothing.

4. Perhaps being well-dressed is the base upon which chic-ness manifests itself. However, you can be well-dressed and have a posture and mannerisms that preclude all attempts at being chic. For example: If you are well-dressed but slump at the shoulders and have both elbows on the table while you are chewing and talking simultaneously, it doesn't matter what you are wearing, you will not be considered chic.

5. It appears that clothing is the base, but if your hygiene is lacking and you are biting your nails, nervously twisting your hair or scratching and adjusting body parts, hygeine and personal body attentiveness supercedes the clothing.

6. Or is it just natural - a question of either you have it or you don't? And do women who have "it", know that they are chic? Clothing and hygiene are controllable factors but another consideration that makes the blue jeans and black t-shirt look chic is the personality type of the wearer.  Different personality types choose different clothing, therefore one could surmise that not everyone has the predisposition to look "chic" based on the contemporary parameters that have developed around that concept. So are those who are considered chic, introverts or extraverts?

7. For some reason or other, there is this notion that there is a universal desire by all women to look chic. I am sure there are many who say, "No thanks", to that. But it does make sense that the motivation to want to look a particular way has to be the driving force behind looking a certain way.

8. Does education play a role in being chic?

9. Do etiquette and social graces play roles in being chic?

10. So why did I even attempt to elaborate on the topic of being chic?

 Is chic simply to be well-dressed? No.

Second-Guessing Trends

The Fall/Winter magazines are on the newsstands and it seems that we're not quite finished with our flip flops and bathing suits. It's time to assess what trends will be holdovers from the previous season, what will re-surface after being buried for a long while and what will be new. Although the saying, "nothing new under the sun" applies to clothing since there are particular limitations that we impose upon ourselves.

Whenever I assess or try to predict trends, I think opposite of whatever the trend was during the prior season. So if neon brights are in during the spring of one year, then look for an introduction of pastels the following spring. There will always be a stable transition group of colours and those are known as basics - black, white, light and dark caramels and taupes, and dark blues.

As far as jewellery goes, just think back to feathers which were all the rage in the early spring of 2011 but by the spring of 2012 they were being phased out, although you did occasionally see some feathery accessory but certainly you knew they were on their way out. Chandelier earrings have been around for several seasons now with only slight changes in the colour of the gems or glass. So when buying chandelier earrings, the longest lasting ones will be clear glass, opaque whites, black semi-precious gems, metallics - those tones will take you through the cycle of chandelier earrings which just may be a 3 to 5 year period from beginning to end. Feathered jewelry recently has only managed a year long stay, even though one online source is predicting more elaborate feather creations for the fall of 2012.

Spring and fall are the best time to incorporate faddish colour elements like fuschia, turquoise or orange. These will stay around for a short time and then the basics will kick in and be your reliable base choices. That is why it is a good idea to copy men's fashion by buying several tops, shirts and blouses and scarves (equivalent to the shirt and tie) in the faddish colours and keep the major clothing item purchases in the basic colours.

If we analyze what has been, we can predict what will be. And so from what is, here's a closet analysis and five trendy consequences for the winter of 2012:

1 Orange was hot for Spring 2012, so I think we can safely predict that we will see orange for the fall with infiltration to winter and then a phasing out. It is often a fall colour anyway because of changing leaf colour, pumpkins and Hallowe'en, which predominate October and November, at least in North America.

2 Studded shoes, purses belts, jewellery, especially bangles and cuffs, gloves, and the occasional jacket will also continue for the fall of 2012 (as illustrated in the French Marie Claire, September, 2012 issue) and the heaviness of the metal studding is conducive to winter.

3 Colour blocking will evolve into tonal blocking of a colour. Evidence for this comes from the blocking of blues by Lacoste.

4 Animal motifs will continue their popularity in both fabric and jewellery design. Just remember not to wear too much of the print or mix them up too much. It seems you can only get away with that if you are a celebrity.

5 After over twenty years of de-emphasizing the shoulders, shoulders will be larger again but softer and rounder, not in the angular way of the 1980s. This will be particularly easy to accommodate in winter outerwear.

Closet Transitions: Moving from Summer to Fall in 2012

It is now the end of August and most of us, even if we are not returning to school or even work for that matter, have a "back to school" mentality. After all, we have spent a significant amount of time in our lives going back to school.

This is the time when wardrobes need to serve in a transitional way as we transform our preferred summer casual choices into fall wear-ables for work or school.

Here are several items and colours that we can salvage from the summer wardrobe or bring in from our existing winter wardrobes for a fall transition:

1 The sleeveless or short-sleeved tunic dress: Choose a darker contrasting or matching colour in a lightweight long sleeved turtle neck or crew neck top and wear it under a tunic dress. Add tights and shoes to match the tights. Not only are you colour blocking but also transitioning into fall through the simple process of layering.

2 Linen pants: Depending on the autumn warmth, you do not have to pack away the white ones for awhile; but keep any beige, khaki or dark linen pants to wear with a heavier top, light wool 3/4 sleeve length sweater or sweater set. Here is where those lined linen pants serve you well. Depending on the colour, linen can be worn well into the fall. Wear a light-weight wool blazer with the linen pants or light-weight wool pants or a skirt with a linen blazer. Linen jacket and bottoms - pants or skirts - are just too summery so mix and match your linen with light wool.

3 Knee-Length Shorts: Even on cooler days in September, you can still wear your dark coloured knee-length shorts, just as you would a skirt. Depending where you live and on the weather, you may even continue into October with the dark coloured knee-length shorts. 

4 Sleeveless Tops and Short Sleeved T-shirts: Really these are a year round basic that can be covered with a light-wool cardigan or blazer.

5 A Lightweight Dark Coloured Cardigan: I bought a black Armor Lux v-neck cardigan last fall when I was in Romans, France at the Marque Avenue Mall. It has served me very well especially in the spring and fall when the cool mornings or evenings demand a little more warmth than the nice days that allow you to get one more wear out of your summer things.

6 The Pencil Skirt: Pull out the dark coloured pencil skirt and team it with a light t-shirt or sleeveless summer top with a cardigan in the same tone as the skirt. This is a perfect look for anyone who is vertically challenged. 

7 Spring 2012 Colours: As with most colour trends, if you chose a few orange pieces for spring and summer 2012, orange will show up again in the fall. The same goes for any trendy colour introduced in the spring, which you preferred.

8 Shades of Blue: A Lacoste advertisement in the fashion magazine CitizenK, summer edition (purchased in France in August, 2012), featured two fall outfits in a range of blues from royal blue to navy and grey and a page in French Marie Claire, September, 2012, illustrated a Lacoste cotton jersey dress, colour blocked in three shades of blue.  As well, a Miu Miu suit in a dusty navy colour is also featured on a page in the same Marie Claire issue. Find those colours in your closet and mix them with the lighter beiges and taupes of summer and you will ease the transition into blues and greys for winter. In the fall and winter of 2011, Armani focused on shades of blue, in 2012 vestiges of those shades will be lurking around for the winter of 2013. 

9 The Wedge Strappy Sandal: If you bought yourself a pair of wedge heels for the spring and summer, you can take the strappy sandal style well into the fall because of the chunkier wedge.


10 Ballerina and Other Traditional Flats: Stow away the flip flops and opt for flats.

Glasses - Frames

I have worn glasses since I was seven years old. Miss Johnson, my Grade 2 teacher, asked me if I could see the board; I told her I could. She didn't ask me if I could see the writing on the board. She was wise enough to persist and for all of my conscious life I have worn glasses. I tried contact lenses but couldn't be bothered. For me there was something slightly disconcerting about placing a foreign object on my eye. And so I have worn glasses. Presently I am wearing J.F.Rey (made in France) red frames that are about three years old.

Red frames, J.F. Rey, France (circa 2010)

It is now, this time in the fall, when my "back to school" mentality takes over my wardrobe planning and my optical needs. I am no longer required to go "back to school" but still that urge to shop and replenish my wardrobe lingers. Getting a new pair of glasses in the fall was a tradition my mother started with me but not one that I have necessarily continued. Although I still love my J.F. Rey red frames, I feel that I am ready for a new pair.

In July, Deborah, a friend, who is an artist living in Bordeaux, introduced me to Parasite frames. The designer is the son of a local optician, in Ste. Foy La Grande, where I live for six months of the year in France. I met his brother, also an optician, at Optique Martin in Ste. Foy, which has a marvelous representation of designer frames including of course, Parasite.
 

Parasite red frames, August, 2012.

The first three frames I tried on were all on the conservative side of the the Parasite continuum. Parasite also creates novel exotic designs that do not lend themselves to my lifestyle; but oh to be an artist or musician or simply a tad eccentric . . . I'm obviously partial to the red frames at this moment; although because I presently have red frames I will have to return to see what I can find in another tone. Perhaps red frames will become part of my "mark".

All the photos featuring Parasite frames were taken at Optique Martin on Rue République in Ste. Foy La Grande in the Gironde, France in August, 2012. 

Keywords that Brought You Here in August, 2012

Those who blog, particularly about clothing and fashion, might find today's post informative since it reviews the key words that brought visitors to my blog during August, 2012.

Linen

Linen searches were strong in July but tapered off during the first week in August and declined progressively. 

Short Shorts

The greatest number of visits was initiated through "short shorts" searches. In fact, the phrase, "short shorts" has brought more visitors to my blog, since I began writing in February 2012, than any other search phrase. It seems that "short shorts" has not only a fashion connotation but perhaps a sexual one as well. Therefore, variations on the theme were "short shorts for women" and "fat girls in short shorts" - I won't go there . . . A few visitors even took the time to comment since my post, titled Questionable Attire: Short Shorts, could be viewed as being a tad judgmental. It appeared that a heated debate might have begun in the comments to that post but it dissipated after a couple of exchanges. There was even a comment, which I chose not to publish, linking to a rather questionable website. If you want to visit such sites, you'll find your way; this blog does not need to be an intermediary.

That interest appears to be a specific "fascination" with that particular look. It reminds me of the movie "What's Eating Gilbert Grape?" when Gilbert's (played by a much younger Johnny Depp) obese mother made a rare journey into town to rescue her mentally challenged son, Arnie (played by a much younger Leonardo DiCaprio) and to admonish the police officer who jailed him. The small-town crowd that gathered, snickered, jeered and at best, turned away when they saw her walking back to the car. Their fascination was uncomfortable and also reprehensible for me. I feel that same discomfort when I see the various "fat girls in short shorts" search phrases. To each his own.

Comfortable Casual

Interestingly, the term, "comfortable casual" brought quite a number of visits to the blog. Although it is not a "recognized" term in the standard acknowledgements of clothing and apparel, it might be developing as such.

Your searches are asking,
What is comfortable casual?
What does "comfortable casual" mean?
What is comfy casual attire?
Casual vrs. comfortable casual
Define comfortable casual in clothing
Comfortable casual workclothes

With the number of hits my blog has received over the past three months, it very well could become a recognized classification. When a significant number of people use the term and agree to its definition, it is essentially a category or classification. As far as who originated the term "comfortable casual", I have no idea; it wasn't me. I did provide my definition on my May 7th, 2012 post, but I can't imagine that I would have been the first to do so either.

Knee-Length Shorts  

The knee-length shorts post was also well attended over the summer months although not anywhere near the number "short shorts" brought.

Packing for a Two-Week Visit to Europe

August experienced a higher interest in travel and thus more hits on my travel posts.

For bloggers who visit, and if you have the time to comment, what search words and phrases are bringing visitors to your blogs?

Making a Statement with Jewellery

The acceptability and perpetuation of fashion/costume jewelry has been attributed to Gabrielle Coco Chanel. Those faux pearls have been combined, altered, minimized, maximized, modified, put to many uses, and rearranged in the creative design process over the decades since the 1920s. Chanel was making a statement with those strands of pearls and essentially opened the door for us to do the same.

Photo Source: http://cocoat5.blogspot.fr/

When you want to make your statement, choose your medium - do it with turquoise or some other semi-precious stone such as rose quartz, crystals or metal; yes, even with feathers.

Millicent Rogers, the American oil heiress socialite, who fell in love with the American south-west and collected turquoise, coral, mother of pearl, onyx and silver jewellery crafted by the Indigenous people of the area, provides us with a model for creating our own "look". Her admiration developed into philanthropic work and so her adornment had nothing to do with trends. Others have done the same in India, Africa, Bangladesh, Pakistan and Central and South America. Clothing and jewellery was a means of regional and ethnic identity for Indigenous peoples and now for us, their creativity provides a vehicle for our individuality.

Millicent Rogers, American socialite and fashion icon, 1902-1953. Photo Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Millicent_Rogers.jpg

You don't have to be an oil heiress. I know a woman of Native Canadian ancestry, Ojibway specifically, who wears, has worn and will wear feather earrings all her life. It is her statement jewellery choice. Hers is a choice based on ethnic background and not on trends. Whether it is a cause, ethnic background or an obsession, making your statement with jewellery relieves you of the burden of trends. By laying claim to your own ethnic identity and with a little historical research, you too can make your statement with jewellery.

If you are interested in the history of costume jewelry check out The Clothing and Fashion Encyclopedia for a sourced overview.  

My friend Cathy, who lives near Lyons, France has some of the best statement pieces I have ever seen. She is particularly fond of bracelets and rings and because of her work and travels to Africa and India, she has some very stunning pieces. She has mixed the ordinary with the precious and it works. These bold ethnic pieces have become her "mark".

I am still searching for my statement, for my "mark"; but it is a learning process. Necklaces have never been my favourite, although I have worn many that I have made (perhaps more for promotion than making a statement). Earrings I like but somehow I prefer a simple classic design and will wear one style for months. Bracelets have perhaps been my favourite statement pieces since I like to wear multiples at one time with or without a watch. I have done this without paying any mind to trends.

It's time to make your "mark".



 

Clothing Size Differentiation

Closet Content Analysis: What sizes are in your closet? 

Almost 20 years ago now, I was in Hong Kong in a North American size 6 body.  I was shopping in a mall and walked into a store where I noticed a perfect hot weather dress. I smiled, pointed and asked for my size. The woman told me to go away because I was too fat. Granted, she probably had limited English and was trying to tell me that she did not have my size. At least I hope that's what she meant. Another time, still in Hong Kong, I was shopping for shoes with my friend. We found a great store and when my friend asked for her size, the woman looked at her feet and with incredulity said, "O-o-oh, your feet so bi-i-i-g!" But the saleswoman took her to the back and found the shoes my friend wanted. However, the saleswoman was shaking her head the whole time she served my friend.

Those recollections made me analyze the sizes in my closets.

In my Canadian closet, I have a range of sizes from 4 to 12 and in my French closet a range from 38 to 46. Yes, I have lost weight and many of those items are too big for me now but still in Canada I wear a range of 4 to 8 presently and in France I am more consistent at 40 but I can fit some 38s and some 42s are also comfortable. Clothing made in Germany fits me better than clothing made in France. I have been told that I have wide shoulders, for a woman, and my frame, even when slim, can be considered athletic rather than thin.

Many sales servers will tell you not to mind the sizes because some start at 0 and others start at 6; therefore, a three size range is always possible. I have also been told to take care of where the item was made. A sweater set I once bought was labelled as Extra Large and fit my size 6 body perfectly. In this case, where in the world is an Extra Large the standard to fit the frame of a woman, who can wear sizes 4 and 6 in North America?

Since many clothing items are made offshore, strange interpretations of sizes arrive in North America and Europe. Standards appear to be different for items made in India, Bangladesh, Cambodia, China, Indonesia, and Philippines. I imagine each factory has different standards for the country for which they are manufacturing. I have a "small" outfit made in India that is too large for my friend who is a Size 46 in France. I am presently wearing size 4 linen pants made in Cambodia and purchased in North America, that are baggy, and a size 42 pair of Zyga (Paris) pants that fit me just right. Yet, in France a size 42 is equivalent to a "large" whereas a size 4 is equal to small most of the time.

I am perplexed. In what sizes and where are larger women buying their clothing? If my body frame is wearing an XL and that represents the size options for that clothing item, then anyone in an American size 12 would be considered XXXL - that seems ridiculous!

Shoes tend to be more standardized around the world than other clothing items. But even with shoes, I can wear a 6.5 to 8 in Canada and 36 to 38 in France. That being said, I still have more consistency with shoes at sizes 7 and 37.

I suppose the only inconvenience is that one cannot simply purchase when they find something on sale; everything must be tried on. When it is crowded, as in the case of sales, it would be nice to be able to just read the label and buy. In that situation, I often scrutenize the item, try to determine if the size and shape would fit me, and then defer to Medium.

Whether the number is 4, 12, 18 or 24, I'm sure I am not the only one who wishes there were more consistent size standards.

Trash the Dress

Summer is the season peppered with weddings, actually salted heavily. There was one summer when we were at a wedding every weekend during July and August. Over the past about 10 to 15 years, brides (not that many in my experience) have also taken the liberty to enjoy a "trash the dress" photo opportunity.

Wikipedia tells us that, "the idea of destroying a wedding dress has been used in Hollywood symbolically since at least October 1998 when Meg Cummings of the show Sunset Beach ran into the ocean in her wedding dress"(Retrieved August 5, 2012). Since then professional photographers have capitalized on a second round of photographs from the same bride. Through the process, some brides and photographers began calling it an art form, a new expression against a traditional obligation. OK? First you go through the expense of tradition and then you trash. Hmm? It is a dichotomy.

Mind you, what happens to wedding dresses? They hang in either the bride's closet or her parent's closet until, well, until . . . (you can complete this sentence). My wedding dress is still packed in a cedar lined chest, which was my "hope chest" before getting married. I don't have a daughter or any nieces who would be interested in wearing it for their nuptials and so there it lies. 

Some brides trash their original dress and then others buy a dress specifically for trashing.

Trash the Dress Photo taken by Leslie Porter

Marjorie was one such bride who chose to buy a specific "trash" dress. She said, "I really enjoyed the trash the dress shoot and would recommend it with a bargain type dress if the bride wants to keep her original one as a keepsake." In fact, a number of guests at the wedding decided to take turns at trashing Marjorie's "trash" dress.

This got me thinking. What other "trash the dress" symbolic opportunities are there?

• Retirement: The destruction of a "suit" or "uniform" on your day of retirement. Now that makes enormous sense to me. You have worked at a job for 30 years and on the official day of retirement you trash the dress required by your work. I like that!
• Divorce: Now's the time to trash the wedding dress!
• Graduations: The graduation gown or cape is a perfect trash-able item since graduations traditionally suggest that you are leaving a student life and transferring to a working life. And that in itself has a certain amount of irony.

Perhaps, my ideas are more akin to the 1960's "bra burning" symbolism than to the bride's "trash the dress" symbolism.

So what other possible "trash the dress" photo opportunities could there be? 

Packing for a Two-Week Visit to Europe

An email request: I thought you could do a piece on your blog about what to bring as a 30 year old on a trip to Europe  in September- not wanting to bring a lot, but still wanting to be "Europe style conscious". 

"Keep it Simple" Choices

Even though the request specifically says "two weeks in September", I will try to include more generic recommendations. The answer is both simple and complicated; pack classic and light and use your accessories to individualize your wardrobe. Don't buy anything new for the trip since you will want to go shopping in Paris or Barcelona or Milan or wherever you happen to be.

There are several factors to consider before creating a travel wardrobe list: 

How are you traveling - by air to get to Europe, is someone picking you up once you arrive, are you renting a car, using a train pass or flying between cities?

With airline restrictions and extra cost for baggage, light is still the best recommendation. Even if you are traveling first class to get here meaning you can take two check-in bags, if you are transferring onto a regional flight, it's back to the only one bag and one carry-on regulation. Once in Europe (unless a limo is picking you up and taking you directly to your destination and then you stay there), you will be restricted by the size of your rental vehicle, the amount you can carry to get to the train, and other limitations. Even if someone is picking you up when you get to your European destination, vehicles are generally smaller than in North America and depending on how many of you there are, you probably will be holding luggage on your lap. Think light because no matter how you are traveling, you have to carry your bag wherever and however you go.

Light equals one carry-on/daypack and one manageable suitcase with wheels. Backpacks with wheels are sometimes more cumbersome than a suitcase. I find those who use backpacks sometimes rudely unaware that their backpack is a protrusion and obstruction in confined places such as trains. They twist and turn oblivious to the havoc being created behind them. But then again, I understand the backpack's appeal, particularly to the young. Even with a backpack, take the size that you can manage and don't overpack or have it stuffed. You can buy inexpensive clothing you need at markets along the way. 

The request was for September specifically but generally speaking, it's important to identify exactly where you are going and at what time of the year?
Spring, summer and fall in Europe - Sweden is different than Spain. For those coming to see me in France, the temperatures can be the same in Canada and even hotter or cooler. Temperatures in my home province in Canada were hotter than the south-west of France in July in 2012. September can be hot or considerably cooler than the summer months.

Look online at the long range forecasting for the areas you will be visiting. 

Are you visiting cities or is your time going to be in the country?
Keep the clothing you bring classic and plan to go shopping for the statement pieces while you are in the cities. In Paris, when you go shopping, you will be able to find clothing that has an edge, perhaps trendy but it should be individualistic and make a statement. If you are in the country, classics will also do well here but the shopping will be more limited so bring your statement piece with you instead of expecting to buy in small towns. That being said, the markets can hold lovely unique treasures. 

Where are you sleeping? 
If you are staying in a home with friends, you will be able to use their laundry facilities so that will determine the amount of underwear you take as well as other clothing. In Ste. Foy La Grande at the Saturday market, you can buy a bra and pair of matching undies or a packet of three pairs for less than a Coca-Cola costs you on the TGV (fast train). If you are the kind of person who launders all your clothing after each wearing when traveling, you probably have the financial means to have your clothing laundered at the five star hotel you are staying.

Traveling Wardrobe - A Basic List

Here's a potential list for a two week spring/summer/fall (May to September) stay with annotations, given the understanding that you can buy more as you need along the way. There will be events, specific places and particular wardrobe favourites that I cannot anticipate for you. For example: if you love the look of a dark blazer with camel trousers then you will add those items to this basic list. And then a beach holiday will require other items. This is a basic minimalist travel clothing list. 

Basics:
For your regular clothing, choose a base dark colour and complement with two other colours to facilitate mixing and matching in a three-pack of coordinating colours.

• 3 to 5 t-shirts or tops, keep it simple and basic with the ability to wear any one of the tops with any one of the shorts, pants or skirts. Since the evenings can be cooler, at least one of the tops should be 3/4 or long sleeved.
• 1 pair of dark wash jeans or a pair of dark trousers, lined linen pants are a good choice for cooler days and nights
• 1 pair of dark (black, navy) knee length shorts - depending on the forecasts (or another pair of pants)
• 1 pair of leggings - in case it is cool you can wear these under a skirt or when you are relaxing 
• 1 or 2 skirts: for example - a denim pencil skirt and a light wool or lined linen one
• 1 simple sheath dress (optional if you have two skirts) This may be the least worn item but because of its chameleon qualities, you can dress it up or down for day or evening wear.
• 1 simple-design, v- or crew-neck, lightweight wool or cashmere cardigan in a dark colour (May or September can be summer hot or autumn cool and this item is insurance since it can be layered).
• 1 lightweight jacket or 3/4 length "coat" (waterproof if possible)

Footwear:

• 1 pair light weight walking shoes like Keds (leave the heavy weight trainers, joggers and hiking boots at home unless you are walking 20 kilometres a day or you can't live without your daily run) or walking sandals or 1 pair of other comfortable-to-walk-in shoes such as traditional flats - loafers or ballerina flat
• 1 pair of strappy sandals or heels (or the ballerina flats) just in case you need to "dress-up" - a t-shirt with your denim skirt or jeans, your shawl draped or tied as a scarf and a light pair of shoes will do for most restaurants and evenings out, short of the Michelin starred - there  you can wear your sheath dress. You will never see walking sandals such as Burkenstock's with a skirt, unless it's a tourist.
• Take no more than two or three pairs of shoes and in fact, take the ballerina flats, heels or strappy sandals that you least like or are starting to look worn out. That way, when you find a great pair of fashionable shoes in France, you can buy them and throw away the others.

Underwear and Sleepwear:

• 2 bras and 3 to 5 pairs of underpants. If you are staying with friends, you won't have to worry about laundry facilities. (However, don't expect to run the washing machine for just a few of your items, water and electricity utility prices are more expensive than in North America.) For the most part a laundromat is easy to find unless you are in the tiniest of villages. Rinsing out at night is easy if you bring light cotton or synthetics. Leave those heavier Jockey cottons in Canada. However, there is one other possibility - one person I know takes all her "worn out but not yet replaced" underwear on trips and throws them out after wearing. She then buys what she needed as replacement. 

Underwear Vendor at the Saturday Market in Ste. Foy La Grande, France

• If you need socks with your flats or Keds, take lightweight cotton ones - the heavier athletic ones take too long to dry. 
• Take along modest pyjamas if you don't know exactly what your sleeping arrangements will be. If you sleep in the buff, you might want to take along an oversized t-shirt just in case you have to go down the hall to the toilet in the middle of the night. 
• You might not need a robe/dressing gown/housecoat but if you have a short lightweight cotton one, it might be prudent to take it along, although a shawl will work as well.

When sleeping in new surroundings, it can be rather disconcerting if you end up in your host's bedroom stark naked instead of the toilet where you were intending to go.

Hand-washing laundry tips: If you have collected several "hotel shampoo packets", take those with you and use for laundering. Soap is soap and usually shampoos are formulated to attack body oils that redistribute on your hair. Makes sense to me to use shampoo to wash your underwear.

Do a trial run and hand-wash your underwear and tops and then hang to dry in your bathroom overnight. If they're not dry in the morning, you will know not to do it when you are traveling.

Accessories:

• 1 favourite signature necklace, 1 pair of simple design or hoop earrings and maybe one bangle in gold or silver. Or leave the jewellery behind. If you are traveling alone you don't need to be marked as someone who has items of value. I had a friend who took day travel clothing that was well worn in order to look ordinary, so ordinary that a thief would not give her a second look. This is also good advice when returning to your home country. Look so ordinary that the customs officials won't give you a second thought.
• 1 shawl or large rectangular fringed scarf (this is a multi-purpose item - a blanket on the plane or train, for modesty instead of a bathrobe, for cool temperatures).
• Retractable umbrella
• Swimsuit - don't bother unless you know you are staying in hotels with a pool

Before you leave this blog you might want to also check two previous posts I wrote about business and tourist travel to Asia and  packing. When it comes to wardrobe basics and packing, some things are universal and you can always adapt the advice given to your situation.